A NEW guide to fine dining in Hong Kong and Macau by culinary bible
Michelin faced a barrage of criticism Wednesday, as local gourmets
insisted the book failed to understand their city's cuisine.
Critics said the guide, which featured 251 restaurants and hotels
in the two cities, focused only on high-end eateries and cared little
about an authentic Chinese dining experience.
'Michelin claimed that they only looked at the quality of the
food. But I doubt it. The restaurants on the list tend to have classy
interior decors and serve food in modern Western style,' food expert
Walter Kei told AFP.
He also questioned whether the 12 Michelin inspectors, of
which only two are Chinese, had enough exposure to local cuisine to
make judgements.
Michelin inspectors awarded three stars – its top recognition
meaning 'exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey' – to Lung King
Heen, a Cantonese restaurant in the Four Seasons hotel in Hong Kong and
French chef Joel Robuchon's Robuchon a Galera in casino resort Grand
Lisboa in Macau.
Eight restaurants received two stars, and 18 were awarded
one. The starred restaurants included several with Chinese menus, some
relatively cheap.
Lum Chun-yip, who runs Lan Fong Yuen, one of the most famous
Chinese teahouses in the city, said: 'I think they should have made an
effort to understand what locals like to eat here and why.' 'If a
foreigner comes to Hong Kong and asks you where to go for great food
and you say Four Seasons Hotel or other five-star hotels, I bet he
wouldn't be too pleased,' said Lum, who serves at least 3,000 Cantonese
milk teas a day.
Local newspapers were full of similar criticism the day after the launch of the guide.
Michelin had already moved to deflect criticism, saying it
featured restaurants from across the price spectrum, including some
where a dish costs fewer than 100 Hong Kong dollars (13 US).
'You do not have to be French to understand French cuisine,
you do not have to be Chinese to understand Chinese cuisine,' Jean-Luc
Naret, director of the Michelin guides told reporters Tuesday.
Mr Naret also insisted that in other cities it had expanded its team of local inspectors following the first edition.
